Margari Aziza

August 17, 2008

U Go Gurl: Traveling as a Black Woman

Filed under: Uncategorized — Margari Aziza Hill @ 4:38 pm

Most travel books don’t prepare Black Americans for the experiences they will have abroad. Ever since I first traveled abroad, I have been bemoaning the lack of resources for Black women who want to see the world. I receive frequent emails from Black women who are either planning to go abroad or are already abroad and looking for resources. Last year, I suggested that someone should compile our stories so that I could support other sisters who want to travel abroad. That’s why I was happy to find this web resource,
U Go Gurl and the book, Go Girl
Go Girl Cover

FINALLY A TRAVEL BOOK FOR AFRICAN AMERICAN WOMEN.

A rich collection of fifty-two stories covering the globe. Sister-to-sister advice on everything from destination selection, to traveling solo, to saving money on airfare. Exploration and discussion of issues of particular concern to black women; dealing with racism, overcoming fears, claiming entitlement, etc. The book also includes a planning guide and a resourceful guide.

Maya Angelou tells the story of arriving in Africa a stranger but leaving claimed as a member of the Bambara tribe. Evelyn C. White writes about finding new pride in being black after visiting Egypt. Opal Palmer Adisa evokes the sights, sound, and aromas of urban Ghana where she traveled to meet her lifelong pen pal. Lucinda Roy brings alive the year she spent teaching girls in Sierra Leone and talks how the villagers’ friendship overcame her loneliness for home.

Alice Walker offers a quite meditation on how the beauty of the country stirred her imagination. Audre Lorde captures her experience of being refused entry to the British Virgin Islands because of her dreadlocks. Gwendolyn Brooks recounts the camaraderie and tensions of a trip to Russia with a group of American writers. Gloria Wade-Gayles explores the complexities of being both an American and a woman of color as a paying guest in a Mexican home.

“Whether traveling for escape and relaxation (“Sailing My Fantasy”), on a spiritual quest (“Red Dirt on My Feet”), in search of a mind-expanding, life-changing experience (“The Kindness of Strangers”), as a “going home,” finding one’s roots (“Before I Was a Bajan”), to find relief from racism (“Why Paris?”), to celebrate black culture (“In Search of Black Peru: Christmas in El Carmen”), to honor black history (“Visiting Nannytown”), to reach for understanding across cultural barriers, (“Japan of My Dreams”), to help others (“Seeing Things in the Dark”), or to open up new possibilities in one’s own life (“Genesis of the Traveling Spirit”), the travel experiences chronicled in Go Girl! will delight, enlighten, and inspire.”

I’m very excited to read the articles, as well as make a contribution to the site. This is especially true in light of my many awkward social encounters while abroad that have somehow involved race. I’ll try to outline some of them, as well as stories my friends have recounted. When I went to Durham England to do research for a week, I really felt like things were going pretty well and I was not confronted by awkward racially charged moments. I was satisfied with my research experience, the staff at the library and archive were very nice. I had many quiet walks through the half empty town and along the river. Nobody really talked to me, except during breakfast at the dining hall. On my last day in Durham, I had a conversation with a British man who either worked at the library or in the dining hall at the castle/hostel where I was staying in. I commented on the city’s quaintness, the beauty of the campus, my pleasant stay in a castle, and of course the library and archive. I was also interested in the Sudan studies program and getting a PhD in the UK is much faster then the unbearably long, endurance test that passes itself off as a PhD in the US. Light heartedly I said I might return to Durham as a student in in a PhD program. The man said, “well that might be hard for you being that you’re black and people aren’t used to seeing Blacks in these parts.” I felt like saying, “Thanks for reminding me that I’m Black, for maybe drawing attention to all those awkward exchanges in stores or in restaurants, the extra looks I receive, all the things I ignored just to make the trip more comfortable. Thanks for highlighting that I can never fit in or fully comfortable in your country.” But I didn’t. Instead I tried to be pleasant and we ended the conversation shortly after. I liked Durham a lot less.

Traveling while Black in many parts of the world can expose you to some amazing experiences that help you put America’s racial dichotomy in better perspective. In the Aswan region and Nubia, the Nubian vendors would call out, “Nubian! My cousin!!” In Marrakesh, some vendors pumped their fists, shouting out, “My sista!” Little kids would come up to me and ask if I was Moroccan. If traveling with Egyptians, I can get Egyptian or Moroccan rates as long as I don’t open my mouth and say something. Traveling incognegro can be beneficial. Sometimes people are even nicer. Egyptians, for example, love Barack Obama. They will talk endlessly about him. Sometimes there is solidarity, and that can be nice. Most of my travels have been in the Middle East, so there is often a Muslim solidarity that helps bridge the racial and cultural divide. When I was flying from Alexandria, Egypt to Kuwait, my carry on was way over the weight and size limit. The clerk at first was going to charge me, then he said, “OKay, you go! I like American Black Muslim!”

At the same time, you will find that racism is a global phenomena and that you may get a different reception than your white, Asian or Latino/Hispanic/Chicano counterparts. Sometimes it’s subtle, sometimes not so subtle. My friend who traveled to Spain said she would get approached by men who assumed she was a prostitute. One young man who went to France said that the French treated him like he was stupid until they found out he was American and then they just treated him like #$@*. When I traveled to Sharm al Shaikh, I was constantly stopped asked what room I was staying in. My roommate who was a stunning brunette with bright blue eyes, on the other hand, was never stopped and asked. She was the one to notice pattern.

At airports and security checkpoints, guards take extra time examining my passport, in disbelief that I was really American. In fact, most people find it hard to believe that I am just plain ole Black. I often say in broken Arabic, no may family has been in American min zaman (for ages). Also traveling in the Middle East, you may get anti-African sentiment due to illegal immigration from Sub-Saharan Africa to North Africa. n Europe, people can think you’re illegal. This is why I hold on really tight to my passport. Try to get on a flight to Heathrow with all those stickers from the Gulf, Morocco, and look phenotypicaly North African or from some “Moozlem country. You may just get detained as they run some background check, miss a flight for r no particular reason except you look like a possible terrorist. Don’t travel to all the “hot spots,” as the British intelligence officer who interrogated me as I was running late for a flight, called them.

People can say racist things also, especially the brats that run the streets. I was in Kuwait in a Bedouin neighborhood with my friend and her daughter on my way to a Mawlid. And these Bedouin boys were staring at my friend’s daughter and she at them. They made faces at her, she made faces at them. And I heard them say withing like “….Abeed!” My friend seemed to ignore it, and my friend’s daughter said, “They’re rude!” I was pretty hot, but at that time, they were really tired of my anti-racism tirades. So, I just made a mental note that bedouin kids who live what basically amounts to Kuwaiti projects (even thought the projects are much fatter than you’d ever have in the states), are racist little #$*$!! In Egypt, depending on how you look, kids and ignorant people will say rude and racist things. A European student studying at AUC said her friend came to visit and people would make monkey sounds. My friend’s husband has a Black British friend who was always asked the time. The thing was they would get a kick out of him lifting his shirt and still being really dark. And they’d go and laugh and laugh. Also, in social circumstances, you could have some awkward conversations where people say things that wouldn’t fly in America. People may not pay any attention to you, while they fawn over your paler friends.

Further, Europeans and Americans can assume you are just part of the landscape. You’re that native that needs to move out their way as. One time I was traveling with my friend from Bahia. We look very similar and people often assumed we were Moroccan, maybe from somewhere in the South. On our way from Casa Blanca to Fes, we found some British people were sitting in our seats. So, we were looking at our tickets and them. Mariah said, “Umm, these are our seats.” I was trying to speak to them in my clear American diction. The young couple just looked at us blankly and the crusty old man blurted out, “Doo Youu Sbeakk Frrrench?!” I said, “No, I speak English!” What really pissed me off was that he didn’t hear us because we were brown. He assumed that our non-British accent meant that we weren’t fluent speakers. Our brown skin rendered our language incomprehensible, as well as our rights to the first class seats that we purchased with our hard earned money.

Like the Sharm experience and the train, people may assume you are a migrant worker, refugee, or just have less money than your paler counterparts. Or they may doubt that you belong. I find it troubling that sometimes I have to talk in extra loud English to get some attention. This works wel in Kuwait because they love Americans. While your friends may be able to get their American privilege, you have to assert yours. “You better respect me, my country rules the World!” sometimes to get some your needs met. One of my friend advised dressing to the nines all the time. She said she dresses almost like a princess and spends lots of money. Then people treat her well. I’m not saying that you want to flash your passport or a fat stack of local currency. But really, you have to keep in mind that how people see you in the lands that you are visiting can shape your experiences in that country.

I definitely have to follow this up with a traveling as a Muslim woman, that’s a whole different trip.

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22 Comments »

  1. Assalamu ‘alaykum wa rahmatullah

    I pray that you are in the best of health & imaan.

    This is a short message to notify you that this entry has been selected for publishing on IJTEMA.net, a venture to highlight the best of the Muslim blogosphere. Please visit the site to find out more about our initiative.

    May Allah bless you for your noble efforts.

    Wa’salam

    Comment by Ijtema — August 17, 2008 @ 6:40 pm

  2. [...] happens when an African-American, Muslim woman travels abroad? Turns out there’s more to it than you think – this Muslimah has some surprises in store for [...]

    Pingback by Traveling as a Black Woman — August 17, 2008 @ 6:45 pm

  3. Salam Alaikum,

    I can’t believe I found this topic. I wish my husband could read this now. When I travel to Egypt people are so racist…I am a dark-skinned Myuslimah, and Egypt being in Africa is confusing. Thee people act like they have NEVER seen a black person. And a black with a Canadian passport…no way..unheard of. My husband used to say I was sensitive, but it really feels strange having people literally stop and stare at you.
    My White friend who married a Lebanese was so disgusted at their racism..she told me that her mother in-law told her that she was happy her son married her (my friend), rather than someone his colour (who is quite fair), and would always refer to her as the one with the coloured eyes.

    I guess the whole point of Islam has been missed.

    Great blog…

    Comment by salma — August 18, 2008 @ 3:55 am

  4. Hello there!

    I have traveled extensively throughout the world and it is baffling for me to learn about the entrenched stereotypes that exist about black American women in many countries abroad.

    {shaking my head}
    Lisa

    Comment by BlackWomenBlowTheTrumpet.blogspot.com — August 18, 2008 @ 4:02 am

  5. Salaam’Alaikum

    I would really love to go to the Middle East for an Arabic immersion course but its crap like this that makes me reluctant to do so. My Muslim mentor used to travel to Egypt every year in order to provide her homeschooled children with enrichment opportunities but couldn’t take the mentality of “some” of the people there. Fortunately for her, she has done an excellent job, enabling her children to build solid self-esteem, so that they could survive the low expectations of them.

    Salaam

    Comment by SisterSeeking — August 18, 2008 @ 6:44 pm

  6. “I definitely have to follow this up with a traveling as a Muslim woman, that’s a whole different trip. ”

    Would you consider publishing something for young people as well?

    Comment by SisterSeeking — August 18, 2008 @ 6:46 pm

  7. Salaam alaikum Mary Ann,
    I wouldn’t let people’s nonsense stop you from learning Arabic. It is just part of the experience, We get stuff in the US too, at least that’s what I remind myself.

    I wouldn’t be able to provide much insight for young travelers as I only began traveling in my late twenties through research or language study fellowships. I’ll just stick to what I know and hopefully it can provide insight for people of all ages.

    Comment by Margari Aziza Hill — August 18, 2008 @ 8:57 pm

  8. salaams sister,
    “go girl” is one of my all-time favorite books. i think it came out in @ 1996 or so(?). one of my sisterfriends gave it to me as a gift. i read it and was inspired. three months later we took off on a month long visit to west africa and travelled through 4 countries by road. i can count the non-africans that i encountered on that trip on one finger. so thankfully, we were able to leave blatant western racism behind. however, as two “high yaller gals” with locks, we were annoyed at being referred to as “white” in the local dialects by african women with chemically straightened hair and red-tinted bleached skin. sometimes we confronted them, other times we just laughed at the irony and kept it movin’.

    Comment by muslimahlocs — August 18, 2008 @ 9:07 pm

  9. As Salaamu Alaikum:

    I have traveled to the Middle East alone and I can say, it can be quite the experience for Black women or anyone woman who is traveling alone for that matter. I had some very trying experiences some of which were just due to ignorance but yet the experience was still a great one and one I don’t regret mashaAllah.

    Comment by Imanubillah — August 19, 2008 @ 2:47 am

  10. ASA,

    What I want to know is how a sista can afford to travel. I would love to globe trot but I don’t have the money…

    Comment by Jamerican Muslimah — August 19, 2008 @ 3:11 am

  11. [...] by Guest Contributor Margari Aziza Hill, originally published at Just Another Angry Black Muslim Woman? [...]

    Pingback by U Go Gurl: Traveling As a Black Woman at Racialicious - the intersection of race and pop culture — August 19, 2008 @ 3:00 pm

  12. Salaamu alaykum,

    Interesting site. I guess I never really thought about the fact that there would be tips for me – an African-American woman – travelling abroad.

    Comment by Shayla — August 19, 2008 @ 4:38 pm

  13. Wa Alaikum As Salaam Jamerican:

    What I did is what we usually see our white counterparts do which is to save for a year (0r more) and use our vacation to travel. If we do this, then we will have the money it takes to travel for at least two or three months depending upon our bills and such.

    Another way to do it is if you know you want to travel for over a year then you work for a couple of years until you save up enough money then you make your move. This can be hard but if you have supportive family or friends in your home country then it can be done. You can also leave your job on a favorable note so that they may hire you back in the future if need be.

    Comment by Imanubillah — August 19, 2008 @ 6:47 pm

  14. Assalaamualaikum sisters!

    I really enjoyed reading this post as much as it gave me little pangs in my heart for the trying aspects of your journeys.

    Re Jamerican’s question:
    I agree saving is very important. You might also try making contacts through local masjids. I know some people who are teaching in Egypt in exchange for Arabic immersion. Most of them got there through people here in the States who have studied there previously.

    There are also good programs in Jordan and another program in Yemen. You might also consider asking Marc of the Manrilla blog about his specific financing or saving plan for his recent trip to Saudi via the Medina Institute, I believe.

    Comment by baitunjamil — August 19, 2008 @ 9:47 pm

  15. I agree so much with your post. Black women do need a source of support! In fact, that is one of the reasons why I started reading your blog. Eventually I do plan to move to the Gulf…unless my job takes me somewhere else. I can relate to many of your experiences even at home. I live in a city that has a large Muslim population so it has been an eye opening experience for me….particulary in regards to race relations. IN many ways you are my inspiration and I really appreciate the time and effort you put into sharing your experience. =)

    Comment by Anna — August 19, 2008 @ 10:08 pm

  16. Salaam alaikum,
    Thank you for your kind words Anna.
    Baitunjamil, Marc was the photographer for the trip, so that helped enable that trip.

    I had a lot of people express envy. But they have little idea of the big leap of faith I took and sacrifices I made. I received funding to go abroad because I entered a graduate program and needed critical language training in Arabic for my research. I also received a few research grants since being in graduate school. Other than that, I’ve never been on a real vacation in my life. Life is hard in the states.

    As for Muslim community centers, sorry to break it to you, but sisters get no love. I’m an academic whose work specifically deals with Islam, and I got very little support from Muslims even when I asked for it. In the end, I had many difficulties and challenges (some of the hardest I experienced in my life). Initially I felt let down by folks who initially said they would support my studies, but didn’t follow through. There were a few people who helped out, when I was stuck in a real bad jam. I’m not bitter, Allah made a way for me and I had to have faith. But I’d never recommend for anybody to travel abroad like I did this year. My friend told me it was like walking a path that I couldn’t see. I just had to have faith and take some shaky steps forward. Alhumdulillah I’ll be home soon.

    I do agree with Imanullah and Bait, it takes careful budgeting and sacrifices. If you like lattes in the morning, you may have to just take your folgers at home for a year. You have to cut back, not go out for a while. Some credit unions have vacation loans. Also, there are some places that are fairly cheap to go. You can check out fares on vayama or if you are a registered student with a university email account, you can try studentuniverse. You can stay in hostels and crappy hotels. Traveling abroad for extended periods of time means giving up a lot of things of comfort and just taking that leap. Its worth it.

    Comment by Margari Aziza Hill — August 19, 2008 @ 10:21 pm

  17. You might also consider asking Marc of the Manrilla blog about his specific financing or saving plan for his recent trip to Saudi via the Medina Institute, I believe.

    baitunjamil – salaams. Margari is right. I was hired by the Madinah Institute and thus my expenses were negotiated by them. Perhaps this is something enterprising brothers or sisters can think about: an in-demand skill set that can negotiate such endeavors. But aside from that, I believe one must have a focus and a prioritization and perhaps even more importantly, a deep, deep yearning for the Prophet and the desire to visit him at his Masjid. To visit the House of Allh. Make an earnest du’ah to be put on the most exclusive of guest lists and in sha’Allah He will invite you.

    Comment by Marc — August 20, 2008 @ 3:22 am

  18. aslam alikum,
    this is the first time for me in your blog and frankly when I started reading this entry I was wondering: why would a black woman need a special travel book!!
    forgive my ignorance but i am a Saudi girl who has never been else where other than Makka and Madina and other cites near my hometown Jeddah..
    i remember a blue eyed white American who lives in Saudi now complained to me that Saudi people keep gaze at him in malls and streets.
    my only attempt in fighting this racism issues meanwhile is trying to cure my younger brother from being racist toward Pakistani people..

    Comment by du7aa — August 22, 2008 @ 6:15 am

  19. I was in Egypt for the summer of 2008 for a month. I was in an area where there weren’t even tourists. And let me tell you that I didn’t feel any kind of racism. Some people thought I was north Sudanese but I didn’t experience anything negative at all.

    Comment by whatdidusay — March 22, 2009 @ 7:03 pm

  20. I am a black female Canadian who has travelled extensively (including stints living abroad). I really enjoyed your blog – thank you.

    However, I was disappointed with this statement in your final paragraph: ‘“You better respect me, my country rules the World!” sometimes to get some of your needs met’.

    Yikes!

    That may only serve to reinforce the “ugly American syndrome”. Just a thought…

    Comment by Deborah — September 10, 2009 @ 1:16 pm

  21. Deborah, I was just inserting some humor in my post. Okay? But thanks for dropping by.

    Comment by Margari Aziza Hill — September 10, 2009 @ 2:04 pm

  22. hello,

    have you thought about setting up a website for traveling black women? would you like some help and/or advice. please feel free to contact me on this site

    Comment by Janice — October 1, 2009 @ 5:15 pm


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